Yesterday I found the most beautiful thing on our run. We started out looking for a market to buy dried seaweed (I've taken a strange liking to putting it on lots of things while here, and will be taking some specially-Korean-seasoned seaweed home with me!). We found a market, and then a really steep alleyway behind it, and ran up, past little shops just opening for the day. At the top of a long and winding road (musical interlude) I saw the top of a temple just peeking over the treeline. We ran up to it, and found a large shrine, complete with burial site, beautiful gardens, and large statues. It was silent, with the exception of the beating of a drum and a low chant coming from a ceremony being conducted in one of the temples. We took off our shoes and entered, standing at the back in our running shorts, but enjoying being a part of the prayer ritual. We then walked into different buildings, one with a large white buddhistava in the center of hundreds of lit tea lights, another with a gold Buddha surrounded by 3,000 smaller ones (I didn't count, there was a sign).
Unfortunately, we had to leave this peaceful place to come back down for a taekwondo lesson (perhaps not my strong point, but I made it work!), but we came back this morning as well, and tomorrow before my flight (I leave for the airport at 7:30 am), I am going to take a run up there very early with a friend, and we are just going to sit in one of the temples for a while, taking in the peaceful atmosphere around us.
Yesterday also took us on a pilgrimmage to find waffles, something I along with two friends have been craving here, as they are something of a fad, advertised at every cafe. They might have been the best waffles I've ever had, or perhaps just a major contrast from the kimchi. We also went shopping in the women's fashion district, then came back for the evening farewell ceremony, where we heard once again from our sponsors at the university and with the Korea Foundation.
Today was incredible, though. Our running group took a trip to Bukhansan National Park, the most popular in the area for good reason. The first adventure was getting there, and my big success for the day was navigating the Korean public transportation system through two subway changes and a city bus without error, and without losing anyone, a success in and of itself. As we got closer to the final subway station to go to the park, the train emptied of everyone except for Koreans carrying excessive hiking equipment (I, again, was in running shorts). The bus was packed far beyond the limit with hikers, and once we got to the mountain, the crowd at the base was unbelievable. I couldn't believe this huge appreciation for nature, that so many were taking the day to enjoy a walk in the woods.
This wasn't just any walk in the woods, however. With craggy mountains beyond anything I have ever seen coming into view at every turn, I instantly understood why hiking was so popular. The trails were all extraordinary. We wound on and off of the paths, taking little jut-offs to find temples concealed in the woods, or large Buddhas looking out across the valley, or water trickling down a rock face. It was on one of these jut-offs that we found ourselves not at a temple, but on someone's doorstep (there are small residences on the mountain, incredibly). A woman and her daughter were watering the flowers in front of their house, and, realizing our mistake, we bowed and headed back down the trail. As we left, though, she called to us, and we turned back. When we returned, she was holding a box of packaged little chocolate marshmallow cakes, which she proceeded to empty out into our daypacks. She offered the picnic bench outside her house, but, not wanting to overstay our welcome, we headed back down once again, thanking her profusely. She sent me off with a nice rub on the back and a smile. The kindness and helpfulness of the people here is overwhelming. Unlike the rushed mentality that surrounds us, everyone here is willing to take their time, listen to those around, and reach out. As we were heading down the mountain after our hike and picnic lunch off the trail by a waterfall, a monk coming down from a temple stopped, bowed to us, and took the time to teach us a proper bow in return. He will never see us again, but still, he took the time to share something of his life and culture with us.
I have felt so blessed to have had this opportunity to experience this culture, learn from the people of Korea, and share something of my life with them as well.
I leave tomorrow morning, but will post something when I get back as a final reflection, and will throw in some bonus stories for you to laugh and smile at as well, so check back in for that! Can't wait to see you all!
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